Driving day. We drove over a 5700′ pass to Alamagordo, NM, home to Holloman Air Base, White Sands National Monument and Oliver Lee State Park. We set up in the park which is about 12 miles south of town.
Very few places in the world exist where you can see more than you can from one of the park’s camping spots. Plainly visible are Hwy 70 running SW back to Las Cruces, White Sands Nat’l Monument, a mountain range clearly visible some 60 miles away and spectacular cliffs at your back. The sunset was truly spectacular when lighting the bottoms of cloud banks 50 miles away. Definitely worth the $14 a night camping fee.
January 15
Drove into Deming over the same mud road to the 7 mile long other road that takes you to the road that will ultimately put you in town. At first and second and maybe subsequent glance, Deming is quite unremarkable but they do have a really neat Luna County Museum in the old Armory. The museum collection includes a horse-drawn hearse that is in superb condition and quite beautiful despite the somber purpose. Too bad we weren’t here yesterday so we could have missed the rain although the weather is nice today: maybe 55 degrees and a few wispy clouds.
Spent a part of the PM putting in the Barbarian Invader’s other gooseneck weather strip but found an improved method involving a screwdriver.
January 14
Drove to Deming NM in rain. The last 1/2 mile into El Rancho Lobo campground is normally dirt with some gravel but when we got there is was mud with little ruts and snowing big flakes. Trailer setup was quite brisk and very gooey. The park host (Charlie) spotted us into our site in such a way that all exterior cargo hatches, the Barbarian Invader entry door, the hitch area and both side doors of Charlotte were located directly over large areas with scant gravel but abundant glutinous mud that formed a strong bond to our Vibram soles.
Cold (freezing some) at night in this part of the world in mid-January. Elevation is still about 4500′.
January 13
We (Jed) decided we should go to Sierra Vista’s Environmental Operations Park to see what he believed would be abundant wildlife. The facility is a series of basins where treated sewage water is impounded to drain back into the aquifer, which sounded like a sound policy. Don’t know about the policy but the wildlife was a bust. We saw less than three birds but we believe we heard some others. It would be a good bird viewing area for the blind but we were underwhelmed.
From the EOP we drove over to the canyons running out of the Huachuca Mountains to give them a sniff. We went up a canyon called Miller and ran out of decent road at a place called Beatty’s Guest Ranch. It really isn’t a ranch but it is an amazing bird-watching area.
The ranch is actually a house that the woman owns and she rents out one room and serves breakfast to occasional tenants making her place a B&B. If you arrive at the right time, you can get a parking place and donate $5 a head to the plastic jar on the gate, walk about 35 feet and take a chair on her veranda/broken flagstone or cozy up in the sunshine on a garden terrace. The lady (Mary Ann?) that runs the joint is an avid bird-watcher and camps on the porch to describe what you are seeing. She is quite savvy on the species which is good because there are about 100 types of birds that visit her tiny back yard. Perhaps it is because she has a bunch of feeders and sticks halved fruit in the trees for all to enjoy and they birds know the stuff is here. The place seems to be just about halfway between the lowlands and the highlands so she gets most of the birds from both places. Saw a Pyrraloxia (sp?) which seems to be a cardinal except it is beige with separate red chunks of crown on his noggin. Never seen one before. Even non-birders should try this place out.
Still cold at night. I suppose I shouldn’t be surprised since we are about at 4500′ elevation.
January 12
Peg & I went to Kartchner Caverns about halfway to Benson. The cavern tour is $23 which is a bit steep for a state park site. The caverns are neat. They give you a little shuttle ride up a hill and then send you underground. There are some common sense rules like you won’t need a jacket because it is 80 degrees and 99 percent humidity once you go through their airlocks. Since the cave is still alive and they don’t want it to dry out they have installed three airtight doors with passageway sections of paving between them. Only one door gets opened at a time. They also mist all entrants to suppress dust. The first room we went into has a great path going in but the cave isn’t that amazing. The second room we went to had a big ornate column they have titled “Kubla Khan” but I don’t see any resemblance to any historical figures. This cave is nice and they give you a little show w/ music and great lighting but after this you are on the way out. It is a good place to see once but it is only a fart in the breeze next to Oregon Caves, Carlsbad Caverns or Mammoth Caves.
After the caves we drove onto the grounds of Fort Huachuca, a commingled facility for just about all government agencies but it is primarily an army base. Back in the day, this was the home to the Buffalo Soldiers. They must have been manly men to come here and fight Apaches, a notoriously tough adversary, in this terrain.
There is a spot called Reservoir Point (?) where you can see virtually all the the San Pedro River Valley and it is a big ‘un. Spectacular views. We got pix.
January 11, 2015
Got Charlotte Taylor Wilson out on the highway today. Drove almost due east and ran across a town called Fairbank (no “s”). Two or three different railroads ran through here back in about 1880-1910 and some of the buildings are still left. Most anybody going to Tombstone w/o a horse came here by rail and took a stagecoach to T’stone.
From this non-place we went a bit further east then turned south to Tombstone. It has a nice city building but the rest seems to be re-created stuff made to look like you would expect it to; it appears to be sort of a poorly-done Knott’s Berry Farm.
Almost without stopping, we goosed Charlotte down the road to a gorgeous little town called Bisbee. Actually, half of the town (the NE half) is like a little fairyland of houses but they all seem to be built on top of the former layer of fairy tale houses. Skinny, mostly one-way streets run up and down and across the steep canyon walls passing neat little cottages on postage stamp size lots. A couple of houses appear to have been built directly over the creek with some of the foundation on one side of the creek and the rest of the foundation across the creek. I imagine it would be noisy when it is raining. Peggy and I went into a tiny museum on the skinny portion of the main drag and wouldn’t you know it, we spotted another two-headed cow (stuffed) but this one seems to have two faces on one head while the two-header in John Day, OR has two separate heads sort of merging into one set of shoulders. Of course we took pictures.
We drove out of what we thought was all of Bisbee going SW when we came across what seems to be a different town but it also claims to be Bisbee. This Bisbee is quite ugly unless you are one of those folks who reveres shacks and deserted dwellings.
We continued westbound until we passed Coronado Monument again. You can see the border fence running through the adjacent river valley and it is hideous but impractical. What a pork project. It would seem that the decision makers in Washington did not recognize that Mexicans are thoroughly versed in the use of ladders and capable, therefore, of easily scaling the fence almost without delay to their northward passage. We drove back up 92 and 90 to Quail Run.
January 10, 2015
Didn’t do much except about 6 loads of laundry and attempt to manipulate 100 inches of almost frozen weatherstripping into the Barbarian Invader’s gooseneck. Many broken fingernails and much cursing later we finally forced the recalcitrant piece of shit into it’s new home.
January 9, 2015
Driving day. We drove from Tucson to the Sierra Vista / Huachuca City area south of Benson and I-10. We set up the Barbarian Invader at a park called Quail Run about 3 miles N of Huachuca City. They have everything: E, W, S, Laundry. We drove such a short way today and arrived so early that we had time for a bit of exploring.
We drove south on FH 90 to SH 92 south and scoped out some neat side canyons and the Coronado National Monument which is literally a stone’s throw from the Mexico border. Very scenic.
Nights are cold here: 32 degrees and down.
January 8, 2015
Today we took a drive up to a place called Sabino Canyon. It is just a canyon like others around here except it has abundant water (maybe because it was raining), great rock formations and allegedly extensive wildlife of which we saw none. Maybe the weather. Anyway, the canyon is quite beautiful and you can pay $6 or $8 and ride their shuttle. You can walk in w/o charge but the shuttle is a better deal. If you want to get off the shuttle anywhere to look around, you may do so and merely re-board another shuttle at your convenience. Quite a riparian area.
January 7th, 2015
Drove back to the west unit to go to the Desert Museum. It cost us $20 a head because they asked if we were ancient enough or retired military or members or gimps but we were none of the above so we had to pay full price. Nevertheless, it is a spectacular museum with multiple outside pavilions with all kinds of critters like hummingbirds, regular birds, snakes, bugs, spiders, otters, a beaver, raptors and cats. They also have an extensive garden of both native and imported desert plants. Definitely worth the $20 but you need to either go early in the day or cover it in two days because it is extensive.
From the museum we went about 2 miles down the road to something called “Old Tucson” that seems to be a mix between an old west movie studio and an amusement park. We passed on this one.
From there we went home over Gates Pass Road again and it was just as pretty as yesterday.