Today was a travel day. We loaded up our stuff and departed from Bay View RV Park in Fulton and headed mostly east toward Galveston Island. It was about 185 miles on Texas back roads and it was a great drive. Our Garmin took us down a couple roads that were not too snazzy but we were on well-paved TX-35 most of the way. Near Galveston, we turned south on TX-6 and followed it all the way to Galveston Island. Passing through the city of Galveston we drove by many gorgeous old houses built back in the early 1900’s. A few miles later, we pulled over at the Sandpiper RV and backed into our spot.
At this time, with our Good Sam discount, a spot in the park costs $41 a night. The park only has about 40 spots but it is right on the beach, has cable TV, wi-fi, full hookups and paved spots. At the time we arrived, there must have been some excavation work in progress on the beach which resulted in an overpowering stench of crude oil and crap. Peggy asked the lady at the desk if there was a dead and rotting whale on the beach but she said “no.” Fortunately, either they covered up the stinky layer or the wind changed and the stench went away.
We were on the road more than 4 hours during today’s drive. That is about the maximum time we are willing to drive in one day. After setting up the trailer, we crawled inside for some extended lounging. We will go explore Galveston tomorrow.

There were no entries on our “to do” list so we went exploring along the Intracoastal Waterway, Aransas Pass and across the Texas ferry at Port Aransas. Most of the drive from Fulton to Aransas Pass is through open coastal marsh although there are some residential sections. The homes on the sand hills and atop pile foundations are quite nice. The houses in the low spots are pretty dingy, maybe because this coastline gets hit by hurricanes and storm surges that only leave the fancy houses standing.
At Aransas Pass we turned southwest across a bay and marshy area sprinkled with oil drilling equipment, including two enormous ocean drilling platforms. They appear to be the largest pieces of equipment I have ever seen. A standard 82-ton American crane with a long boom was parked next to one of the platforms and it looked like a toy.
Adjacent to where the platforms were parked, we boarded the free ferry across one of the passages from the Intracoastal Waterway to the Gulf of Mexico and disembarked into the town of Port Aransas. The weather was kind of crummy with light rain so we took an exploratory drive around the Port Aransas area without too much getting out of the truck. There are quite a few really nice homes but most of the places seems occupied by substantial beach houses, most of them at least 10′ off the ground supported by numerous wood columns. I guess residents only store what they can afford to lose on the first floor because the ocean does make periodic unwanted incursions into this area during hurricanes and storms. Those with houses built on grade swim.
Despite the rain, plenty of sea birds were present for our enjoyment and we spotted what appeared to be groups of bottle-nosed dolphins cruising around the ferry slips and nearby saltwater lagoons. Many Texans were out fishing and we saw some that were having good luck when working along the weirs adjacent to the ocean passage.
We finally grew bored with exploring the streets around Port Aransas so we re-boarded the ferry and headed back for the Bay View RV park in Fulton. I’m glad I dumped the stinky tanks yesterday because otherwise I would have been sitting out in the rain doing it today. We will depart from the Rockport area tomorrow. The scenery is good here, particularly the live oak forests. The wildlife we saw around here was amazing in its diversity. The seafood is pretty good, too. The park is okay for the price but their sewer systems and wi-fi are shaky.
We got a few pictures along the way and you can see ’em if you click here

Today was a day for mundane, miserable chores. We started the day with our usual enriched coffee and showers but soon had to knuckle down and take care of business. We wrote and addressed our mail, Peggy did some laundry, I dumped the tanks into the park’s partially blocked sewer system, we went to the Lack of Activity Center to access the internet and send in blog entries and photos then we drove to the post office and sent the mail.
After a short drive down the Fulton and Rockport waterfront, we went to a grocery store down here called HEB. It seems that all the locals congregate in the HEB so they can obstruct shoppers by blocking access to anything you may want or idly standing around the cashiers so even exiting the store is challenging. Prices in the HEB are not that great but they do have a fabulous meat section extending across two walls of the store. They must love sausage here because there is an abundance of varieties, mostly with the words “mesquite” and “jalapeno” on the packaging. The rest of the day we spent making Peggy’s fabulous beef stew and watching movies. We are so boring.

We had no chores today so we elected to go exploring. We decided to head east about 35 miles to Aransas National Wildlife Refuge. The roads are nice, two-lane blacktops all the way to the Refuge and we were able to drive substantially slower than the posted limit. We were attempting to spot unique local species but soon found we would not need to look hard to see kestrels. There were lots of them perched on the power lines awaiting creatures too stupid to remain motionless around these predators. They are not large but they maneuver like fighter planes and seem quite well fed.
We finally pulled up to the Refuge’s Claude F. Lard (no kidding) Visitor Center and showed them our Federal geezer access card and were told to move along without coughing up the $5 entry fee. We had just driven away from the Lard Visitor Center when we spotted our first alligator lounging alongside a big pond. He appeared to be grinning, maybe awaiting the next sucker.
We continued on the big loop road that passes through the Refuge, stopping at some viewpoints and a massive observation tower that allows vistas over the oak forest to be seen. From the tower we could see some distant whooping cranes, ruddy ducks, egrets and great blue herons. We noted a few cara-caras, some of them dining on formerly slow prey. Deer were browsing along the loop. Many northern mockingbirds perform aerobatics in and out of the surrounding brush, frequently under the gaze of the kestrels. Black Vultures patrol the skies. More alligators relaxed near ponds next to the road. It was a nice drive.
On the way out of the Refuge, we spotted a nice nine-ringed armadillo rooting around for tasty bits in a pasture next to our route. These are truly bizarre, albeit well-armored, creatures. Aransas NWR is a great place to spot critters and we had a great time.
See some pix by clicking here

Every so often, our magnificent Ford F-250 Super Duty pickup truck and geezer transporter needs some preventative maintenance and today was the day. We drove Charlotte down to Minit Man 10-Minute Oil Change in Rockport. Almost immediately, the guy running the show came out, directed me into an appropriate bay and sent a flunky into the inspection pit to drop the drain plug. They topped off all the fluids, filled up the crankcase, put the proper air pressure into all the tires and had us on our way in about ten minutes. Good name, I guess.
We followed up on our chores by taking our Vornado heater we bought in 2014 in Coos Bay, Oregon, to the local mailing center to ship it back to Kansas for repair or replacement. It sort of crapped out a while back and, considering the exorbitant price for their heaters, we thought we should take them up on their 5 year guarantee.
Even returning it is problematic. Pesky consumers, like us, are required to call Vornado’s Disgruntled Consumer Abuse Line to get a pre-approval to return their failed products. When eventually connected with our personal abuser, numerous questions were asked, like the unit’s serial number, another number from the bottom of the failed component and which side I dress on. Only after this painful but necessary series of steps will the manufacturer e-mail a pre-paid mailing label to us to print, carry around and ultimately securely fix to the box we use to send the heater to the reluctant manufacturer. We did not save the original box so the mailing company only charged us $17 to bubble wrap the cull unit and box it up for pre-paid shipping.
We left with vague, recently-screwed feelings but soon they abated and we took off on a slow drive around the peninsula which separates Copano Bay and Aransas Bay. The road is a mostly-paved pathway along a slough and the Gulf of Mexico and many smart Texans or Jack Texans have built impressive estates with big architecturally inappropriate houses erected thereon. Other Texans have fashioned more rustic estates with decaying single-wide mobile homes surrounded by rusting junk and moderate piles of trash. Some of the trailers have been upgraded through the addition of unreinforced ashlar masonry structures entirely supported by the foundationless mobile home’s sturdy framing. There are many forms of interesting construction here.
We completed our circle by rewarding ourselves with tasty seafood dinners at Fulton Seafood Cafe and Deli. Peggy had Cajun grouper that she said was okay and I had the shrimp scampi which was great. Only about $45 later, we split and made our way back to Bay View RV Resort and the Barbarian Invader.
We got a few pix you can see by clicking here

Today we stowed all our loose stuff, hooked the Barbarian Invader to Charlotte and departed from Colorado River RV Park in Columbus. Because of our TT membership, our cost to stay for the last week was $0.00. Colorado River is a great campground with views of the river and tons of animals to watch.
We drove south for about 3 hours on Texas single-lane blacktops most of the way and it was splendid. The countryside is gorgeous, making a slow transition from hilly oak forest to flat tidal marsh near the Gulf of Mexico. The flat lands near the Gulf are peppered with sloughs, dikes, ponds and estuaries and the wildlife certainly changes with the environment. Up at Columbus we saw lots of deer, cardinals, fat yellow-bellied squirrels, warblers and common grackles. Near the coast we encountered cara-caras, great blue heron, snowy egrets, whooping cranes, ruddy ducks, lots of kestrels and the ubiquitous grackles.
We eventually ended up on US-35 and pulled off into the Bay View RV Resort in Fulton. Fulton is a tiny town next to Rockport which is a bit larger than a tiny town. On our last pass through this area, we stayed at this park. In 2015 the management assigned us a spot that, because of some maintenance and grading issues, made it impossible to level our fifth wheel. We drove to the office and bitched and were promptly awarded a different location which was level, roomy and overlooking the lake.
This time, the grumpy girl at the counter assigned us to Space 131 which was substantially too short for our 34 foot long trailer, had no place to park our tow vehicle and also had a sewer connection cleverly located under the adjacent tenant’s outdoor porch carpet and boots. Fortunately for us, a campground employee named Chuck drove up in his golf cart and noted there was a problem. He called the grumpy lady and we were miraculously re-assigned to Space 192 which is spacious, has a visible sewer connection and is located perfectly for us to get a great satellite signal.

Today we hung pretty close to the trailer and made some reservations for our next few stops. It looks like our next destination is down in Rockport, on the Gulf of Mexico.
Late in the day, we were stricken by a strange form of insanity that compelled us to tinker with the water plumbing despite there not being a Home Depot, Lowe’s or Ace Hardware anywhere near our RV spot. The insanity also got us started at about 4:00 PM. Once I had removed and replaced the interior water filter, we turned on the water which promptly squirted in all directions. Taking the filter assembly apart and scrutinizing it, we discovered a crucial O-ring was boogered up and made some futile efforts to make the questionable O-ring hold water. All efforts were for naught.
At about 4:45 I told Peggy to get on her phone and look up the closest plumbing supply or hardware stores where we could look for a replacement ring. Columbus is in the central time zone and weekday hours for hardware and plumbing supply stores generally end right at 5:00 and we weren’t but 15 minutes from town.
Peggy got ahold of a guy named Fred at Columbus Hardware and he said he would hang around the store long enough for us to come in and peruse his O-ring selection. We shot over in Charlotte and Fred was awaiting our arrival. He took us inside to the counter and made some measurements and started pulling boxes of assorted O-rings from the dim recesses of the store. He had a full selection of all the standard sizes but none would fit properly into our component. Fred remained determined to send us away with what we needed so he got creative. We discovered an O-ring with the proper length but a greater ring diameter size that would fit in the groove and headed home, thanks to Fred and his willingness to work overtime to help two insane Californians.
Surprisingly, when we installed the fat ring into the filter system, it sealed up all the leaks, tight as a drum. I could hardly believe it. That stuff never works. What a great day. The sunset was gorgeous again this afternoon.
See pix by clicking here

Today we returned to Mikeska’s BBQ outside Columbus. We dined here in 2015 on our way to the east coast. We arrived on a Sunday again because that’s the day they have $11 brunch. The first table has the usual salad stuff, some veggies, boiled taters, turnip greens (not our favorite) and scrambled eggs. The second table, however, has all the stuff that is bad for you and very tasty; barbecued ham, brisket, ribs, turkey and chicken along with giblet gravy and stuffing. There’s white and whole wheat bread that’s very good, rolls and unremarkable chocolate cake to finish it off. It is one of the best $11 brunches available in the places we have gone in the last 32 months.
After Mikeska’s we took a spin up CR-109 and made a loop back to our place by passing through Frelsburg and alongside a giant private refuge where rich assholes go for canned hunts of exotic animals. We continued to Fayetteville and turned toward Ellinger and our park. Along the way we spotted turtles, cara-caras and lots of songbirds along with some future former African-type deer or oryx or something.
The back road drives here are wonderful. There is almost no traffic, the scenery is continuously changing and sometimes surprising, the Americana along the road is unique and creative and it is easy not to get lost. The amount of wildlife is amazing. There are animals everywhere and only a few of them are cows.

Giving Charlotte a break from old folks transport, we lingered around the Colorado River RV Resort campground all day.
We took a walk in the sunshine. I watched some racing on TV. Peggy graciously dug in against the income taxes. We had text exchanges with the kids. We were boring. It was fabulous.

Today we were free of any pesky chores so we went exploring again. We elected to go north.
Our first destination was The Best Little Whorehouse in Texas, an illegal but tacitly accepted bordello that was in business from the early 1900’s to 1973. The very same business is mentioned as “that little house in La Grange” in ZZ Top’s song “La Grange.” We started out in the center of town and consulted our fancy phone to find the location of the famous cathouse, called The Chicken Ranch. We found the correct road but it was only after further phone consultations that we found that we should actually be looking for the ruins of The Chicken Ranch. The location is a brushy vacant lot with a barbed wire fence between it and the road.
Apparently, in 1976 two Dallas lawyers bought The Chicken Ranch and moved it (the prostitutes? the building? the clients?) to Dallas where whatever it was burned down. It was probably quite easy for lawyers to become pimps since they are adept at regularly fuc…… mistreating people.
We felt compelled to give ourselves a reward so we stopped at a nearby barbecue place in Ellinger called Peters BBQ. It is a small roadside joint with absolutely fabulous ribs and chicken. The sides are buffet style and they also have a soft serve machine for those with room for dessert. Their meat was fantastic and we both found their cornbread stuffing tasty. Their beans are also very good. We spent $32 for two, including 3 sides each, tips, two drinks and one dessert. The place is on TX-71 in Ellinger near Hruska’s Bakery.
We then started a big back road circle to the east, then north, then south through the surrounding counties. We passed through little towns named Fayetteville, Willow Springs, Industry, Nelsonville, Bellville, Phillipsburg, Brenham, Burton, Carmine and Giddings before passing again through La Grange on our way home. The Texas countryside can be stunningly beautiful. Of course there are bumpkins who keep everything they ever purchased in their yards but most of the rural residences are very handsome and some of the houses in the towns are absolute architectural gems. This place looks how rural America looked to me back in the 1960’s; quiet town squares, two pump old gas stations, awnings covering the town square sidewalks.
There’s a few pictures you can see if you click here