Another day of hunting waterfalls. This part of SC has a bunch of them but some are harder to find than others. We initially went to Chau-Ram County Park which has a nifty waterfall that you can see from the parking lot but after we paid it started to rain so we ducked out temporarily to go eat instead.
We ended up at a place called Yousef’s, which seems a bit strange for this part of the world considering the locals’ feelings about minorities in general and Arabs in particular. Once we got inside, we met Yousef who was wearing blue jeans, a nice shirt and a baseball cap and spoke English better than I do. He was a very nice guy and his restaurant serves great food, particularly chicken. The waitress we had originally lived in Chicago. Quite a few people seem to have emigrated to this state which is not surprising considering the scenery, which is spectacular, and the prices, which are low.
After pigging out at Yousef’s, we went back to Chau-Ram Park but it was raining even harder than when we left. The waterfall in the park is technically on Ramsey Creek just upstream of the confluence with the Chauga River, hence Chau-Ram. The park is very nice with a visitor center / meeting hall, picnic shelters big enough for groups of about 20 or 30 and some neat trails up both Ramsey Creek and the Chauga.
We left Chau-Ram and sort of wandered toward a waterfall called Riley Moore Falls which is up a dirt road with a new form of SC signage – none whatsoever. We were unsuccessful in our effort to find this waterfall and we are not sure it even exists considering the local knowledge one must possess to ascertain the location where it may or may not be.
After driving many miles back down the dirt road from the alleged location of Riley Moore, we got back on a paved road and cruised to Reedy Branch Falls near Long Creek, SC. Reedy Branch is about a quarter mile down a gravel and dirt road and you need to walk down the road to get to it since the US Forest Service maintains a locked traffic gate where the gravel road hits the paved highway. It is fortunate they maintain the locked gate because the road is almost completely washed out near the falls. However, the trail to the falls splits from the gravel road right before the washout and the trip up the trail is definitely worth the walk. The waterfall at Reedy Branch is gorgeous. The water tumbles over the bluff about 60 or 80 feet above the pools at the bottom and cascades down a series of rock shelves. We were absolutely alone here; nobody else was around which is surprising considering how beautiful a place this is. It was a tragedy.
After hitting this spot we headed back towards the Invader with only about 3 or 4 little forays off the highway to find things that do not have signage such that idiots like us can find them. Even getting temporarily lost in this part of the world is fun. The scenery is beautiful, the roads are moderately well paved, the access fees to the parks are dirt cheap and getting lost is actually pleasant. What a place.
Monthly Archives: May 2015
April 9
This date does not have much of a story. We did the laundry in the campground facility which had good washers but slow dryers. Peggy also spent a good part of the day doing taxes with a TurboTax program we purchased recently. When it comes to taxes, almost all the news is bad so I won’t elaborate on today’s activities. Droll comes to mind.
April 8
Today’s destination was Issaqueena Falls in Walhalla, SC. Walhalla is a quaint little town with quite a few really neat houses and a nice downtown area where we stopped to eat at a place called the Steak House Cafeteria. This place has pretty good food at a very reasonable price but, unfortunately, no steak. They do have really good fried chicken that the tourist guides for SC indicate has been designated the best fried chicken by Blue Ridge Magazine. I’m not sure it is really that spectacular but it certainly goes way beyond being nominal.
After lunch we continued up the road to Issaqueena Falls, which after about a 2 minute walk are plainly visible from the top. Another 2 minutes takes you to a nice viewing platform where the entire falls can be seen. It is a very nice natural asset to this area and, although one is required to leave the designated trails to access other viewing areas, they are very nice, too. A short walk for younger folks than me takes you to the bottom of the falls where there are large, flat rock formations where you can sit and gaze at the surrounding beauty. Another quite well-used but undesignated trail takes you to a ledge beneath the very top of the falls where you can walk behind the cascade of the creek without getting wet, sort of like I saw in the movie, Last of the Mohicans. If we were a bit younger and in better shape, we would have been all over this place.
Leaving Issaqueena Falls we decided to do another drive through the rural countryside surrounding the area and the scenery was again great. SC has extremely confusing road signs which resulted in us turning around and backtracking a few times to remain on the roads we desired but even going the wrong way was scenic so the confusion was not bothersome. A word to other travelers: road signage here can tell you that despite being on a road that runs west, the signs may indicate you are on a highway that runs both north and south at the same time. Don’t trust the signs. Frequently a fork in the road will have signage that indicates the route you wish to remain on runs down both forks. Sign designations frequently indicate you are traveling on not less than 5 different routes simultaneously but the location where you wish to turn will be carefully unmarked until some 5 miles down the road.
We ultimately made it back home before dark but I think we may have been lucky. Navigation here must be by dead reckoning which may make you dead.
April 7
Since Fair Play is 4 miles east of the GA / SC border, we went back into Georgia today to a state park called Tallulah Gorge which bills itself as the deepest gorge east of the Mississippi River. It is definitely worth the trip to visit this place. There is an overlook on a highway designated GA 441 which is quite spectacular. From this overlook the depth of the gorge is 900+ feet which is quite breathtaking. We also bought a GA yearly park parking pass in Laura Walker State Park a week or so ago which gave us free entry into the state park. They have a very nice visitor center with nice exhibits and starting right at the visitor center is the North Rim trail which gives old fogeys like us easy access to a variety of overlooks where the vistas are superb.
The visitor center is a bit of the way down the side of the gorge so the distance from the overlooks down to the water is only about 400 feet but that seems enough. It is fortunate they have installed sturdy railings at the overlooks because one step beyond the rail is certain death. Very impressive part of the world.
On the way home, we elected to drive around the Tallulah Gorge area on back roads and the drive was magnificent. We must be here at the right time because dogwoods, wisterias and jasmines are in bloom and there is new growth on almost all of the flora. Not as much wildlife as in TX or FL but beautiful nevertheless.
We stopped by another state park in GA, Tugaloo, and discerned it is primarily a spot for boaters. Our GA pass got us in free so the reconnaissance was without cost other than a minor fuel expenditure. The park has nice camping facilities and if we were boaters, this would make a good destination. More beautiful flora here.
April 6
Departed Baker Creek in the morning following the Garmin that had been programmed with our new destination. The Garmin directed us in a direction that I thought suspect and, sure enough, I was correct. About 5 miles from the entrance to the campsite the nice lady’s voice emanating from the device indicated I should turn on a skinny little road that had “DEAD END” clearly marked on the road sign. We ignored the nice lady’s directions and turned around and went back to McCormick, SC, and got on what appeared to be a real highway. Looks can be deceiving and, in this case, they were since the road we ultimately used (State Highway 28 which should actually be called scary narrow road 28) was a very scenic road to Abbeville, SC. Beyond Abbeville, the road widened out to about 9 feet wide instead of 7 feet wide and we were able to continue on our way without terrifying too many drivers of oncoming cars.
We continued up the highway to Anderson, SC, where we drove by numerous fuel stations with the most inexpensive diesel we have seen in our last nine months of travel – $2.279 per gallon. Ironically, we needed no diesel in Anderson because we had not driven far and our speed was quite low since we were traveling a good portion of the way on narrow roads.
We made our destination, TT Carolina Landing in Fair Play, SC, right about lunch time and it promptly started to rain. We only did a partial setup with the Invader until after the rain quit about an hour later. Carolina Landing is right on a lake but the RV sites near the lake involve going down a winding, steep road which we deferred on choosing instead to camp at the top of a hill in the park. No wi-fi except at the lodge but a few TV channels could be picked up using the Invader’s crank-up antenna and two of the four channels are pretty good; one plays old syndicated comedies like Dick Van Dyke and the other is a movie channels that today was running a John Wayne marathon.
April 5
Today is Easter so all the Baptists or other WASPs are packing up for their trips home. No egg hunts visible this morning. Maybe Baptists don’t do egg hunts.
The Ranger came by our site today and put a new breaker in the electrical pedestal so I was able to return the host’s 30 amp extension to him since we now had our own power. Peg and I loafed all day reading and watching Top Gear reruns between prolonged looking out of the windows to gaze at the gorgeous surroundings.
April 4
Another part of a day on the road as we left the Oaks at Point South and drove about three and a half hours northwest to Baker Creek State Park near McCormick, SC. It was a beautiful drive through swampy land with extensive forest canopy changing to hilly land with extensive forest canopy. The dogwoods are in bloom and liberally sprinkled throughout the pine and hardwood forests on both sides of the road. The blooming wisteria vines around here have apparently gone native and completely cover some of the trees resulting in hundred foot tall purple cascades that seem to really complement the emerald green primary growth with the dogwood accents.
Almost the entire drive was on two-lane blacktop roads with the exception of small towns and the miserable portion of the drive through Augusta, GA, where the Masters golf tournament is scheduled to occur in another week. An abundance of golfers have already arrived for the festivities and these diehard funny dressers are all out and about in big Dodge automobiles cluttering the highways looking for restaurants and perhaps golf balls. Traffic was a nightmare and the stupid Garmin or the stupid guy who programmed it ended up sending us directly by the main entrance to the golf course for this rich person’s event where hordes of golf wannabes are amassing to watch the lack of drama. I am not a golf fan primarily because I lack the finesse and talent to play, I refuse to wear the bizarre but colorful knickerbockers and floppy hats and due to the fact I own no golf bats.
As we drove through these gorgeous rural parts of this world, we noticed that misspelled signage and abundant churches seem to be ubiquitous. We saw signs that proclaimed the sale of “ire wood” which must be oak since it is so hard to split. We also spotted a couple of signs that indicated there was a nearby “A-H Baptist Church.” Now I’m not to familiar with many or any Baptists but Asshole Baptists are a cult I have never heard of previously and I’m not sure I want to meet any. Sprinkled among the Baptist churches, which seem to number about equal to 10% of the population, we would occasionally spot a Methodist church. Almost all of the buildings in each rural enclave seem to be in pretty miserable shape except the churches which are quite attractive, sturdy structures. No wonder some refer to this area as the Bible Belt. I’m not sure who puts up the signs around here but there are lots of them that proclaim that abortion is bad, a fetus’s heart starts beating 3 weeks after conception (I’m not sure what they intend to convey here other than alleged biological factoids), Jesus seemingly died for my sins although I can’t remember committing any sins in his presence and that drugs are bad as long as you are indulging in drug use not used by the purchaser of the advertisement. Right next to the signs advocating refraining from sin of most any sort are other signs advertising adult sex toy stores and gentleman’s clubs which are actually strip joints. It seems unlikely I might find any gentlemen in businesses of this type.
We ultimately made it to Baker Creek and found our campsite right away. It is a beautiful spot with lake views out both sides of the Invader. Unfortunately, the campsite assigned to us was a bit out-of-level so considerable jockeying of the Invader was required to find an area where it could be made level through the careful application of leveling blocks and that was only possible by entering the campsite with the trailer facing the opposite direction originally intended by park staff.
Once I got the trailer situated in exactly the right spot and disconnecting from Charlotte, I promptly drove over a partially concealed stump and high-centered the truck. Some cursing and weird maneuvering later, we popped into town and bought some groceries at a store one of the other campers referred to as the “Food Line” but we found out later was actually called the Food Lion. I foolishly bought a variety of meat because they had great prices. On the way home to the Invader, we found out that only a secret location in McCormick (home of the Food Line) sells diesel motor fuel and considerable driving about was required to find the cleverly hidden location.
Once we arrived back at the Invader and Peg engaged in almost supernatural trickery to get all the meat I bought into our modest refrigerator / freezer combo, I found that a new water hose I found at Pio Pico TT in San Diego was not quite the find that I anticipated because it had a substantial leak in one of the fittings. I am such an anal guy that I had sufficient replacement hoses in my equipment horde to connect to the water despite having the Invader pointing the wrong way in the campsite.
At just about dark, as the temperature was dropping, the 30 amp breaker in the park’s electrical pedestal made some ominous-sounding sizzling noises and failed, cutting off 120 volt power to the Invader. Going again to the anal man’s horde, I pulled out a 20 amp extension cord and some conversion fittings and again hooked up power to the Invader. This lash-up promptly failed right after barbecuing steaks for dinner so we were again on 12 volt battery backup power. I strolled across the street to the campground host’s trailer and notified him that the power pedestal was wonky and he said he would contact the ranger to fix it. However, about 5 minutes later he arrived with a long 30 amp extension cord he had made and cleverly walked into the adjacent, unoccupied campsite and robbed power from that location. We were back in business without having to use propane to run our recently overstocked fridge and heat the trailer. What a guy.
Although the events of today were sufficient to bring sobs and curses, the views and surrounding areas are beautiful and the irritating misfortunes of the day were melted away by the spectacular scenery. I hope the rotten luck of today does not reoccur without being in such a magnificent spot. If these events had occurred earlier in our journeys, I’m not sure we would still be doing this. Protracted vacationing had inured us to these misfortunes but I still hope they don’t reoccur, particularly in such abundance.
April 3
Boy, this permanent vacationing is rugged. Today we devoted our valuable time to lounging around the trailer eating and reading. I also spent some of the day reviewing and organizing the thousands of pictures we have taken on the trip this year, primarily because I had no other pressing engagements. Having a clear schedule is so distressing for a layabout, ne’er-do-well like me.
It is a gorgeous day today but we spent quite a bit of time inside the Invader with the air conditioning on because we could. Hahahahahaha.
April 2
Today our activity was to drive about 30 miles back south to Savannah, GA, which both Peg and I wanted to see. Savannah has a great layout with little square parks all over the city and around these parks are a multitude of old Victorian, Queen Anne and Classical buildings with wonderful architecture. We took a trolley tour around the city that led us through a variety of neighborhoods and it was terrific with a couple of minor exceptions. One exception is that the seats on the trolley are quite stiff and are capable of doing nasty things to your blood circulation in your legs and almost medieval torture to one’s bottom. This is coupled with paving technology that seems to use artillery to smooth the road surfaces resulting in an informative but punishing ride.
There is scant parking anywhere in this city except in the parking lot at the visitor’s center or in parking structures that were installed at the expense of the former glorious architecture near some of the delightful square parks. Walking may be an option to truly see this city but the place ain’t small so you better bring your hiking gear if you select this option. Driving all twenty-some feet of Charlotte around the city would be tough because the streets are quite narrow and there is no place to really stop and look without drawing the wrath of other motorists. Nevertheless, the city is beautiful and I would recommend a visit by all. Peg and I can cross this off our bucket lists.
After having our butts rendered senseless on the tour, we re-boarded Charlotte and spun out to a restaurant on nearby Tybee Island called the Crab Shack. It is a waterfront restaurant sort of tucked away in a residential neighborhood with a big, dirt parking lot underneath a grove of oak trees. It is definitely informal with outside dining on a big deck, plastic tableware and styrofoam dishware but the food was terrific. They serve beer and cocktails but no porter so we had water with our lunch which was a seafood combo for two that was ample for three or four. They brought our meal on big platter about 2 feet across that had King crab legs, some other crabs, mussels, crayfish, a bunch of peel-n-eat shrimp, sausage slices, seasoned boiled red potatoes and corn for $40. It was great but took both Peg and me about 90 minutes to eat it all. Hearty recommendation for this place – definitely a five star lowbrow eatery.
Just outside the entrance to the restaurant they have a big stuffed alligator, an equally large stuffed sea turtle with hair and a mustache added and a pond with little alligators you can feed. Fortunately, they have poles with lines attached to the ends that you use to feed the gators since without these I am sure there would be many tourists sporting bloody bite wounds and missing important parts. This is a great place, in my opinion.
After waddling back to Charlotte, we returned home by dead reckoning and only took wrong turns about 3 or 4 times before making it back to the Invader. Our drive went in all four directions of the compass and we ultimately ended up where we started.
April 1
We strapped ourselves into Charlotte and zipped up the road to Yamassee, South Carolina, where we checked into a Thousand Trails campground called “The Oaks at Point South.” There are abundant live oak trees with Spanish Moss decorating them but I did not find any point anywhere, regardless of the direction I looked. We will be here for a few days since it is a TT park and we get to camp here for free.
Unfortunately, we arrived early so we had time to do tasks that we would prefer to forget but cannot. I did some bodywork maintenance on the Invader and Peg did the wash. The laundry facilities here are good and, if one pops into the clubhouse, the wi-fi worked quite well. We also made some reservations for the next few stops ahead of us.